Head:
Shape/Size: Well rounded with a firm chin and jaw. Muzzle to have
well rounded whisker pads. Head should blend into a short neck. Nose to
be short with a gentle curve. A brief stop is permitted but a definite
nose break is considered a fault. Profile is moderate in appearance.
Prominent cheeks with a jowl appearance in fully developed adult males. Ears:
Fold forward and downward. Small. Tightness of the ears is not of major
consequence as long as the ears project a definite forward and downward
appearance. Ear tips shall be rounded. The ears should be set in a cap
like fashion to expose a rounded cranium. Eyes: Wide open
with a sweet expression. Large, well rounded and separated by a broad
nose. Eye color to correspond with coat color.
Body and Tail:
Body: Medium, rounded and even from shoulder to pelvic girdle.
Level back, with no evidence of humping or stiffness. The cat should
stand firm on a well padded body. There must be no hint of thickness or
lack of mobility due to short coarse legs. Toes to be neat and well
rounded with five in front and four behind. Overall appearance is that
of a well rounded cat with medium bones. The cat shall be proportionate
in statue, to include the head, body, tail and legs. Weight is not a
factor except if the cat looks undernourished, weak, listless or
otherwise in poor health. Tail:
Medium to long but in proportion to the body. Tail must be flexible and
tapering.
Coat:
Must be a single coat that is soft and resilient. Medium to
long hair length. Stomach hair shall not extend beyond the leg length.
Full coat on body. Short hair allowed on the face and legs. Britches,
tail plume and toe tufts shall be visible with a ruff. A cottony
textured coat is a disqualification
Accepted Colors:Every color, or
combination of colors, is allowable with or without white WITH THE
EXCEPTION OF THOSE SHOWING HYBRIDIZATION RESULTING IN THE COLORS
CHOCOLATE, LAVENDER/LILAC, THE POINTED PATTERN OR THOSE COMBINATIONS
WITH WHITE. Any amount of white is allowed (e.g. locket to Van pattern).
The degree of symmetry is of no importance. Nose leather and paw pads
are accepted in all colors and in any color combination, not necessarily
related to coat color except where noted. Cats with white on paws must
have pink paw pads or they may be bi-color or multi-color. Silvers are
allowed to have a light tarnish not to exceed 5% on the entire body
(includes body, head, tail and legs) without penalty.
SOLID COLORS
White: Pure clear white. Eyes deep blue, brilliant copper or odd
(one blue and one copper eye) with equal color depth. Nose leather and
paw pads pink.
Blue: Even blue, lighter shades preferred; one level tone without
shading or markings from nose to tip of tail, and sound to the roots.
Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather and paw pads blue.
Black: Lustrous jet black, with sound color from the roots to the
tips of fur. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather and paw pads black or
charcoal.
Cream: One level shade of buff cream, lighter shades preferred;
free from shading, markings or ticking, sound to the roots. Lips and
chin same color as the coat. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather and paw
pads pink.
Red: Deep rich, clear red, free from shading, markings or
ticking, and sound to the roots. Lips and chin the same color as coat.
Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather and paw pads brick red.
TABBY COLORS/PATTERNS
Classic Tabby Pattern: The markings on the Classic Tabby should
be dense and broad. The pattern on the body side consists of a large
swirl, with a light center of ground color, resembling a “Bull’s Eye”. A
“Butterfly” pattern of spots and stripes can be seen over the upper back
and shoulders. Spine lines should begin at the shoulders and extend to
the base of the tail. Full bracelets and distinct “vest buttons” should
be evident. A Classic Tabby should have at least one complete necklace.
Objections: Broken necklaces only, broken circle in the “Bull’s Eye”.
Mc Tabby Pattern: The markings on the Mackerel Tabby should be
dense, but they may be either narrow or broad. The pattern on the body
side consists of well-defined slightly curved penciling resembling “fish
skeleton” ribs. Markings on other body areas will show linear form.
Spine lines will begin on the head and extend down the back to the base
of the tail. A Mackerel Tabby should have at least one complete
necklace. Objections: Broken necklaces only, multiple breaks in the
penciling.
Spotted Tabby Pattern: The markings on the Spotted Tabby should
be fairly well defined spots. They can vary in size and shape, both
round and oblong are acceptable. The spine lines should run from the
shoulders to the base of the tail and ideally consist of rows of spots.
The necklaces on Spotted Tabbies should be broken. There are three forms
of Spotted Tabby. All are equally acceptable: (1) A fully broken, evenly
arranged spotting along mackerel pattern lines. (2) A fully broken
pattern of spots arranged as if both a classic pattern and mackerel
pattern were overlaid on the same cat forming spots where the two
patterns overlap. (3) Rosette spotting, spots which encircle an area of
ground color within each spot (rare). Objections: Spots that join to
form lines, such as are seen in the mackerel Tabby or to join in
“blotches” as would be typical of the Classic Tabby.
Ticked Tabby Pattern: The Ticked Tabby is without stripes or
blotch markings on the body sides and back. The pattern is called
“agouti” and results from the banding, or ticking, of color with ground
color alternating with major color on each hair shaft. The pattern
results in a coat pattern similar to deer fur. There may be a darker
area along the spine, particularly in older cats. The neck, and legs may
be marked significantly with bands (necklaces and bracelets). Necklaces
should be broken in the Ticked Tabby. The tail may show light rings.
Objections: Absence of less than three bands of color in the normal coat
along the back or sides of the cat, as in the Shadeds. Tabby stripes in
the agouti pattern.
Blue Tabby: The ground color, including lips and chin, should be
pale bluish ivory. Markings a very deep blue affording a good contrast
with the pale ground color. Warm fawn overtones or patina over the
whole. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather and paw pads rose.
Cream Tabby: The ground color, including lips and chin, of very
pale cream. Markings of buff or cream sufficiently darker than ground
color to afford good contrast, but remaining within the dilute color
range. Eye brilliant copper. Nose leather and paw pads pink.
Red Tabby: The ground color, including lips and chin, should be
red. Markings a dense, darker red affording a good contrast with the
lighter red ground color. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather and paw
pads brick red.
Brown Tabby: The ground color should be a rich, tawny brown. Lips
and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. Markings dense
black. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather brick red, paw pads black or
brown.
Silver Tabby: The ground color, including lips and chin, pale
pure silver. Markings dens black. Rims of eyes, nose and lips outlined
in black. Eyes green, gold or amber. Nose leather brick red, paw pads
black.
Cameo Tabby: The ground color, including lips and chin, of pale
ivory. Markings red diminishing in intensity of color approaching the
roots of the hairs. Clarity of markings to take precedence over depth of
tipping. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather and paw pads rose.
Blue Patched Tabby: The ground color, including lips and chin,
should be pale bluish ivory. Markings a very deep blue affording a good
contrast with the pale ground color. patches of cream clearly defined on
both body and extremities. Markings of cream on the face are desirable.
Warm fawn overtones or patina over the whole. Eyes brilliant copper.
Nose leather and paw pads rose and/or pink.
Brown Patched Tabby: The color should be a rich, tawny brown.
Lips and chin the same shade as the rings around the eyes. markings of
dense black and patches of red and/or cream clearly defined on both body
and extremities. Markings of red and/or cream on the face are desirable.
Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather brick red, paw pads brick red, black
and/or brown.
Silver Patched Tabby: The ground color, including lips and chin,
are pure pale silver. Markings dense, black, patches of red and/or cream
clearly defined on both body and extremities. Markings of red and/or
cream on the face are desirable. Rims of eyes, nose and lips outlined in
black. Eyes green, gold or amber. Nose leather brick red, paw pads black
and/or brick red.
TORTOISESHELL COLORS
Blue Cream: Blue and cream, lighter shades preferred, in clearly
defined and well broken patches on both body and extremities. Markings
of cream on the face are desirable. Eye brilliant copper. Nose leather
and paw pads blue and/or pink.
Tortoiseshell: Black, red and cream in bright, clearly defined
and well broken patches on both body and extremities. Markings of red
and/or cream on the face are desirable. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose
leather and paw pads black and/or brick red.
CAMEO COLORS
Shell Cameo: The undercoat should be ivory white. The coat on
back, flanks, head and tail should be sufficiently tipped with red to
give the characteristic sparkling appearance. The legs and face may be
very slightly shaded with tipping, but the chin, ear tufts, stomach and
chest should be ivory white without tipping. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose
leather, rims of eyes and paw pads rose.
Shaded Cameo: The undercoat should be ivory white. A mantle of
red tipping shading gradually down the sides, face and tail, from dark
on the ridge to ivory white on the chin, chest, belly and under the
tail, the legs to be same tone as the face. The general effect to be
much redder than a shell. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather, rims of
eyes and paw pads rose.
Smoke Cameo: Ivory white undercoat deeply tipped with red. Cat in
repose appears red; in motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent.
Extremities and face red with narrow band of white at base of hair next
to skin which may be seen only when fur is parted. Ivory white frill and
ear tufts. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather, rims of eyes and paw
pads rose.
SILVER COLORS
Chinchilla: The undercoat should be a pale silver or silvery
white. The coat on back, flanks, head and tail should be sufficiently
tipped with jet black to give the characteristic sparkling silver
appearance. The legs and face may be slightly shaded with tipping, but
the chin, ear tufts, stomach and chest should be silvery white without
tipping. Rims of eyes, lips and nose to be outlined in black. Eyes green
or blue-green. Nose leather brick red, paw pads black or dark charcoal.
Shaded Silver: The undercoat should be a pale silver or silvery
white. A mantle of black tipping shading gradually down the sides, face
and tail, from dark on the ridge to silvery white on the chin, chest,
belly and under tail; the legs to be the same tone as face. The general
effect to be much darker than a chinchilla. Rims of eyes, lips and nose
to be outlined in black. Eyes green or blue-green. Nose leather brick
red, paw pads black or dark charcoal.
SMOKE COLORS
Blue Smoke: White undercoat deeply tipped with blue. Cat in
repose appears blue; in motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent.
Extremities and face blue with narrow band of white at base of hair next
to skin which may be seen only when fur is parted. White frill and ear
tufts. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather and paw pads blue.
Black Smoke: White undercoat deeply tipped with black. Cat in
repose appears black; in motion the white undercoat is clearly apparent.
Extremities and face black with narrow band of white at base of hair
next to skin which may be seen only when fur is parted. Light silver
frill and ear tufts. Eyes brilliant copper. Nose leather and paw pads
black.
VAN: A cat comprised mostly of white with color allowable as
follows:
#1: Confined to head and tail. This is a perfectly marked van, and
therefore, the most desirable.
The following markings will rank behind the above in desirability on an
equal level with each other. These are still acceptable markings and
should not carry a color penalty.
#2: Confined to the head, tail, feet and legs.
#3: Trail extension onto the back from the base of the tail and/or where
the color extends down the backside of the hind legs. Note: The
extension onto the back may contain some white, but must not be
completely broken with white.
#4: Shoulder extension where the color extends down the back and neck to
the shoulder area.
#5: One or two small body patches anywhere on the body.
The van may be marked as numbered above, or any combination of the
numbered possibilities, bearing in mind that the least amount of color
markings other than head and tail is most desirable.
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OBJECTION:
DISQUALIFY: |
Pattern:
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Classic Tabby - Broken necklaces only, broken
circle in the “Bull’s Eye”.
Mackerel Tabby - Broken necklaces only, multiple
breaks in the penciling.
Spotted Tabby - Spots that join to form lines,
such as are seen in the Mackerel Tabby or to join in
“blotches” as would be typical of the Classic Tabby.
Ticked Tabby - Absence of less than three bands
of color in the normal coat along the back or sides of
the cat, as in the Shadeds. Tabby stripes in the agouti
pattern.
Kinked tail.
Tail that is foreshortened.
Tail that is lacking in flexibility due to abnormally
thick vertebrae.
Stiffness and inflexible leg joints.
Definite nose break.
A cottony coat. |
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